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This question was asked by
When is the best time to order Dahlias from you?
Dahlia Thomas A. Edison
Hi there,
We will be putting our Dahlias back in stock in the Autumn. You can be notified by email when they are back in stock if you click on the button ‘tell me when this is back in stock’ on the product page.
All spring planted bulb orders are dispatched in February/March when they need planting.
Hope this helps.
The Hart Family
This question was asked by
Hi
I purchased these bulbs at the Malvern spring show and planted according to your instructions at the end of may. I have tended them like my babies , they are growing fabulously , tall strong and healthy. I feed them every 2 weeks with tomato feed and have sprayed with grazers to prevent lily beetle and they are seemingly quite happy. They are in groups of 5 in terracotta pots in a south facing garden in full sun for most of the day.
Each stem has a good supply of flower buds that are approx 5 inches long depending on where on the stem they are but they have been like this now for at least 4 weeks and are still tightly packed shut, they just don’t look like they will open. Am I missing something, is there anything else I need to do or am I just being impatient? I’ll be devastated if they don’t open up.
Many thanks
Hello,
Thank you for your message — it sounds like you’ve given your lilies the very best care! From what you’ve described, they’re perfectly healthy and just taking their time.
Lilies can sometimes hold their buds tightly for several weeks, especially if we’ve had cooler nights or inconsistent sunshine. This is completely normal and often means they’ll last longer once they do open.
You’re not missing anything — just keep doing what you’re doing, and they should start to open soon. If you’d like to speed things up a little, you could move the pots to a slightly warmer, more sheltered spot to encourage them along, but patience is usually the key.
We’re sure you’ll be rewarded with beautiful blooms very soon!
The Hart Family
This question was asked by
Good morning, would you kindly tell me how to store my Dahlia’s over the winter for next year.
Many thanks
Certainly! Overwintering dahlias is all about keeping tubers safe from frost and rot so they’re ready to burst into life again next year. Here’s a simple, step-by-step guide:
Place in a box or crate with dry material such as:
Every few weeks, check for signs of rot or shrivelling.
If shrivelling, lightly mist the storage medium.
If rot, remove the affected tuber immediately.
Extra tip: If you’re in a very mild area, you can leave dahlias in the ground over winter — just cut back and cover with a thick mulch layer. But it’s always safer to lift them if your winters are frosty.
The Hart Family
This question was asked by
When is the best time to plant Rose lily bulbs.
Hi there,
All lily bulbs are dispatched in February/March when they need planting.
If you have purchased them late into the season at a flower show, then they will need planting straight away as they will still flower this year, usually within 10 weeks. They will then revert back to their usual flowering cycle next year.
The Hart Family
This question was asked by
I bought 12 bulbs from your stall at Wisley plant fair last September. They have been nothing short of magnificent for the last month. They are finishing now. How do I care for them to ensure ref lowering next year?
Caring for Lilies After Flowering
Once your lilies have finished flowering, you can gradually reduce and then stop watering them. Carefully remove only the spent flower heads, leaving the stems and foliage in place. It’s important to keep as much stem as possible, as the green leaves and stems continue to photosynthesise, sending valuable energy back into the bulb.
Allow the foliage and stem to die back naturally — this is a slow process, and you’ll notice the plant turning yellow, then brown, and becoming hollow. This usually happens in late summer to early autumn. Once the stem is fully yellow and dry, you can cut it back to ground level. This natural die-back is crucial, as it nourishes the bulb and ensures strong flowering the following year.
During winter, leave the bulbs in the ground (or pots) as lilies benefit from a cold dormant phase. They are hardy, but they do dislike sitting in waterlogged soil, which can cause the bulbs to rot. If your soil is heavy or prone to holding water, consider improving drainage with grit or planting in raised beds or pots.
In early spring, refresh the surface of the soil or compost with a new layer of nutrient-rich compost. As soon as new shoots appear, begin feeding every couple of weeks with a diluted tomato feed or another high-potash fertiliser to promote strong stems and large blooms. Continue feeding until flowering finishes.
With this care routine, your lilies should reward you with healthy, vibrant flowers year after year.
The Hart Family
This question was asked by
Hi there,
I sent an information request over two weeks ago- no replyI have a wooded area that is naturally shaded and can be dry in the summer due to the tree canopy. Have grown Lily Garden party here and it grows but does not thrive. Can you suggest alternatives.
Regards
Jonathan
Dear Jonathan,
Thank you for getting back in touch, and I’m so sorry your earlier enquiry went unanswered — that’s certainly not how we like to look after our customers. I appreciate your patience.
For a shaded, drier woodland spot, standard lilies can struggle, but Martagon lilies are a fantastic alternative. They’re naturally more tolerant of shade, have charming downward-facing flowers, and return year after year with minimal fuss.
You might also enjoy mixing them with shade-loving bulbs such as Cyclamen hederifolium, Erythronium (Dog’s Tooth Violet), and Anemones for a layered woodland effect. All of these are available to pre-order now for autumn planting.
Martagon Lilies
Cyclamen
Erythronium Pagoda (harts1147)
Anemone Blanda Mixed (harts1143)
The Hart Family
This question was asked by
We have quite a large number of Lilies and are plagued by lily beetle. We’ve tried picking them off but it’s impossible to keep up with them all and they seem to overwinter in the soil. We’ve tried grazers and pro anti spray but with limited success. We’ve reached the pointed of giving up and removing the plants but don’t want to. Is there anything else we can do?
Thank you for your message — we really feel for you. Dealing with lily beetles, especially in a large collection, can be incredibly frustrating. You’re not alone — many gardeners are facing the same battle right now, particularly after the mild winters which have helped these pests survive in greater numbers.
We completely understand why you’re feeling disheartened, but don’t give up just yet — there are still a few things you can try that may improve the situation:
1. Neem Oil Treatment:
If you haven’t already, we highly recommend trying Neem Oil. It’s an organic solution that acts as both a deterrent and an insect growth regulator, disrupting the beetles’ lifecycle. It’s safe to use even when your lilies are in bloom and can help reduce the population over time.
2. Early Season Prevention:
Next season, start applying a prevention spray (such as Grazers or a garlic-based spray) as soon as the lily shoots emerge. This is key — once the foliage absorbs the treatment early on, it can make the leaves taste bitter and discourage beetles from feeding or laying eggs.
3. Improve Winter Hygiene:
After flowering, make sure to clear away all old foliage and any mulch or soil where beetles could overwinter. You might also try lifting and inspecting the bulbs in autumn if the infestation has been especially severe.
4. Companion Planting:
Some gardeners find that planting strongly scented herbs or companion plants (such as garlic or mint) nearby can help mask the scent of the lilies and deter beetles.
5. Encourage Natural Predators:
Birds such as starlings, blackbirds and robins will feed on lily beetles and their larvae. Creating a bird-friendly environment can offer some natural control.
We know you’ve worked hard on your lilies, and it would be such a shame to lose them. With a more aggressive multi-step approach next season, it’s very possible to turn things around.
The Hart Family
This question was asked by
I bought some large lily bulbs from you a couple of years ago at Harrogate flower show. They are fantastic!
Can you tell me how to control Lily Beetles, I must have “removed” over 30 of them this year. I have also the black eggs covered in their excrement.
Regards
Mrs Swales
Good afternoon,
Thank you so much for getting in touch — we’re delighted to hear your lilies from Harrogate are still going strong and looking fantastic!
Lily beetles are unfortunately a persistent nuisance for lily growers, and it sounds like you’ve done a great job already spotting and removing both the beetles and their rather unpleasant-looking larvae.
Here are our top tips for keeping them under control:
1. Early Prevention:
Start checking your lilies regularly from early spring as soon as growth appears — the earlier you catch the beetles, the better. Daily checks are ideal, especially in warm weather.
2. Physical Removal:
As you’ve already been doing, hand-picking the bright red adults and squashing or disposing of them is effective. Keep an eye on the undersides of leaves for the orangey-red eggs and remove those too.
3. Neem Oil Spray:
Neem oil is a natural, organic deterrent that interferes with the beetle’s feeding and breeding cycle. Spray it onto the foliage, paying special attention to leaf undersides. This can be especially helpful if your lilies are already blooming and you want to avoid chemicals.
4. Lily Beetle Prevention Spray:
We also recommend using a dedicated lily beetle prevention spray early in the season, ideally when the first shoots appear. Spraying early allows the solution to be absorbed into the plant, making the foliage taste bitter to beetles. Lily Beetle Prevention Spray (SKU17972)
5. Clean-Up After Flowering:
Once your lilies have finished blooming, remove any dead foliage and debris from around the base of the plant. This reduces overwintering spots for beetles and larvae.
Despite their best efforts, many gardeners have to repeat treatments every year — but with your vigilance, your lilies should continue to thrive!
The Hart Family
This question was asked by
Good morning, first of all congratulations on your latest award.
This spring I had a fabulous display of Triple A in a trough mixed with forget-me-nots.
Can I expect them to do the same next year or should I be lifting them ?
I also had the same bulbs in other containers which didn’t do well at all and some miniature tulips which never even appeared, any suggestions as to why.
On a good note my first lilies from the pink collection have just started, they’re fabulous.
Best regards
Valerie Pearson
Triple A Tulip
Good afternoon,
Thank you so much for your kind words — we’re absolutely thrilled about the award, and it’s lovely to hear that your Triple A tulips put on such a beautiful show this spring! Paired with forget-me-nots, that must have been a stunning combination.
In terms of whether they’ll flower again next year — tulips can be a little unpredictable when it comes to reflowering. While some varieties can come back for a second year, we generally recommend lifting them after the foliage has died back naturally. Once lifted, you can store them in a cool, dry place and replant them in autumn. This gives you the best chance of a strong show next spring. However, if the bulbs are planted deeply in good soil and seem healthy, you may choose to leave them in and see how they do.
As for the containers where the tulips didn’t perform, the issue could be down to a few things — poor drainage, shallow planting, or bulbs getting too wet and rotting over winter. Miniature tulips in particular can be a little sensitive. You might want to check the soil mix (adding grit can help), and make sure the pots aren’t holding too much moisture.
We’re so pleased to hear your Pink Collection lilies are starting to bloom — they really are a fabulous group! Do feel free to send us photos, we love seeing how our flowers are getting on in customers’ gardens.
The Hart Family
This question was asked by
What is “Tomato Feed” for Lilies?
Also please advise if I can use 13-13-13 for lilies? What should be the quantity of fertiliser?
Also please let me know when is the best time to fertilise
Fruit and Berry Plants?
Hi there,
Thank you for your message and for growing your lilies in pots — it sounds like you’re doing a fantastic job!
1. Tomato Feed for Lilies:
When we mention tomato feed on our website, we’re referring to a liquid high-potassium fertiliser, such as Tomorite or any other standard tomato fertiliser. These are ideal for lilies as they encourage strong, healthy flower production. We recommend applying it once every 1–2 weeks during the growing season (from early leaf growth until flowering finishes).
2. Using 13-13-13 Fertiliser:
A balanced slow-release fertiliser like 13-13-13 is also perfectly suitable for lilies, especially after flowering when the bulbs are replenishing their energy. Apply around 1 to 2 teaspoons per 10-inch (25cm) pot, lightly worked into the surface. Be sure to water well afterwards. Avoid overfeeding, as too much fertiliser can damage the bulbs or lead to excessive leafy growth at the expense of flowers.
3. Feeding Fruit and Berry Plants:
The best time to fertilise fruit and berry plants is:
Early spring – just as new growth begins, use a balanced fertiliser (like 10-10-10 or 13-13-13).
Mid-season (around flowering/fruit set) – switch to a high-potassium feed (like tomato feed) to support fruit development.
Avoid fertilising too late in the season, as it can lead to soft growth that may be damaged by frost.
We hope this helps you keep all your pots thriving! If you have any more questions, we’re always happy to help.
The Hart Family
